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Film Olympus
Apr 23rd, 2011 by admin

Film Olympus
black+white film from my olympus OM10 developed in my darkroom comes out grey /underdeveloped. Very careful in?

Very careful in the darkroom could it be the camera and if so where do I start to look for the problem

The light meter could be out of calibration. Try this test. Get a Grey card. Mount it on one side a 16×20 white card, put a smaller black card on the board as well. You should now have a card that gives you a good field of white, as well as the black and grey rectangles. Put the whole thing on a stand in open shade (North facing light) and shoot as follows:

Meter only the grey card, write the exposure on a 3×5 card and stick it somewhere in the white. This is the Normal exposure, according to your light meter. Expose the shot. (Camera should be on a tripod.) The begin the brackets – take the next shot at – 1/3 or – 1/2 (depending on your lens). Write this exposure on a card and replace the Normal card on the big card. Shoot the picture. Take the next shot at -1, identifying it with a card. Do this until you’ve gone down three stops and then overexpose in 1/3 to 1/2 increments until you’ve gone three stops over Normal. Using the 3×5 cards helps you identify which one is correct later.

I find most b/w fims, especially kodak’s, tend to benefit from a bit of overexposure (usually +1 stop.)
These are my results, yours may vary.

Be sure you are mixing your developer correctly, have the temperature right, etc.

Look at the film once it is dry. Locate the Normal (should be 1st frame.) Is it muddy? Then look at the bracket exposures until you find the one that gives you the correct contrast – the white is white, the black is black and the grey matches the card. (You may want to print these out before deciding. Use a 2 or 2 1/2 filter and normal dilution for the paper developer.) Notice what the index card says, for example +1 1/2. This means the light meter has to be adjusted by 1 1/2 stops, or you need to set the ASA 1 1/2 stops slower (remember you are going for an overexposure.)

This is a common problem in older cameras, completely solveable.

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